#PBTownTravel
Town Travel - My favourite town by Mark Turnbull
When Pauline invited me to contribute to her interesting blog
Town Travels, and pick a particular place to write about, I initially thought
about my hometown of Durham, which is scheduled to host the Historical Novel
Society’s conference in September. Another choice was Heidelberg in Germany,
which was at the heart of the Palatine family; home to King Charles I’s sister,
Elizabeth of Bohemia and her children. But then I considered a wildcard option;
17th century Bristol. Over
the past two years through research for my historical novel, Allegiance of
Blood, I have come to know it quite well and especially its siege of 26th
July 1643, during the English Civil War. This, I decided, would be my choice
for town travel.
Although
you cannot physically visit the Bristol that was under siege by Prince Rupert
of the Rhine (son of the Heidelberg Elizabeth of Bohemia) there is much that is
still in existence from those days. I’ll take you through a short guided tour
of just some of those places now.
During the civil war, this was where Bristol’s
Parliamentarian governor, Nathaniel Fiennes conducted its defence. It was
constructed at the behest of William the Conqueror and was a state-of-the-art strong
point, bolstered by the natural defences of two rivers; the Avon and Frome. In
1138 King Stephen even considered the castle and the town to be impregnable,
but by Tudor times the castle had fallen into disrepair. Nevertheless, it still
had six heavy guns mounted in the keep and fourteen along its curtain walls and
well-stocked, should have been able to hold out for months. It was unceremoniously
finished off by Cromwell, who ordered its destruction after the civil war.
Today, Castle Park has taken over the site of the mammoth structure. Opened in
1978, armies of children enjoy the park, while there is also a sensory herb
garden and five silver birches that were planted to commemorate D-Day. Saint
Peter’s Church stands like a haunting echo of WWII, ruined from a Luftwaffe
bombing raid. To the east, like rows of ancient teeth, you can still see the
remains of the castle poking through the ground and there is even an excavated
vaulted chamber that has been restored.
BRISTOL FORTS
As Bristol became more and more wealthy, its success gave a
new focus upon trade. The city expanded and at one point was described as the
second-city of England. The rabbit warren of streets at its heart, clustering
around the castle, lay in a dip, and as such the new streets began to climb
upwards. To protect the ever-expanding city, a string of forts was built on the
hills to the north, and during the civil war an earthwork line linked each one.
The problem for the parliamentarian governor, Nathaniel Fiennes, was that he
had too few troops to man this huge expanse. It would only take the capture of
the forts and then their cannon fire could be turned around to rain down iron
roundshot on the city below.
Brandon Hill, the site of one of these forts, today houses a
park and a nature reserve, as well as the 105-foot Cabot Tower, which offers
great views of the city. Since 1625, it has been a public open space. You can
still see the remains of the civil war earthworks which fortified this site
during the siege.
It’s near Brandon Hill Fort where the royalists managed to
break into the city, leading to its surrender. I consider the siege of Bristol
to be the mother of all the English Civil War sieges. Sir Francis Berkeley, the
main character in my novel, is in the thick of it at this breach on that early
July morning.
STREETS & PUBS
Victoria Street and Frogmore Street may have Victorian
connotations, but they are made up of 17th century veterans of the
1643 siege. The Hatchett Inn dates from 1606 and is said to be the oldest
operating public house in Bristol, though its exterior has been modernised. Ye
Shakespeare was built in 1636, as its pub sign proudly announces. Separately, there
is also the lovely Llandoger Trow dating from 1664 which is on King Street.
Robert Louise Stephenson is said to have modelled Treasure Island’s ‘Admiral
Benbow Inn’ on this place, and it is reputed to have been where Daniel Defoe
met a man who was to be his inspiration for Robinson Crusoe. It is also billed
to have fifteen ghosts! Additionally, Bristol was visited by the 17th
century’s leading diarists, John Evelyn and Samuel Pepys. So why not have a
drink in one of these establishments and see if you can experience any whispers
of their past.
BRISTOL CATHEDRAL AND CHURCHES
Founded in the early 12th century as an
Augustinian Abbey, the chapter house is described as being a ‘stunning
Romanesque gem’ and the Lady Eleanor Chapel is decorated with beastly carvings
that masquerade as humans. It even managed to survive the Reformation and was
rebranded and rededicated to fit with the new religious order. It houses a late
17th century organ casing.
Saint Mary Redcliff is the largest parish church in England.
During the 1643 siege it stood outside of Bristol’s 2.5-metre-thick walls but
was rapidly conscripted into the town’s defence. It was packed with soldiers as
well as three cannons and held off the courageous attacks of the Cornish
royalists. It still stands proudly as a monument to the civil wars.
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